Orange Wine: Exploring Tannins and Flavor Saturation

In the vast and diverse world of wine, there exists a fascinating category that stands out for its distinctive color, complex flavors, and unconventional production methods. Orange wine, often referred to as amber wine, is a captivating style that has gained increasing popularity among wine enthusiasts in recent years. It is also called “skin-contact wine,” which describes the method more precisely than the color does. In this essay, we will explore the intriguing world of orange wine, its characteristics, production process, and the sensory experience it offers.

Understanding Orange Wine

Just in case anyone doesn’t know: orange wine, despite its name, is not made from oranges. Orange wine is a type of white wine produced from white grape varieties, where the grape skins are left in contact with the juice during fermentation. This extended maceration period imparts a rich amber or orange hue to the wine, hence the name. The term was reportedly coined in 2004 by the British wine importer David Harvey, who wanted a simple label for a style that did not fit the usual white and red categories. So, orange wine is similar to red wine but is made from white grape varieties. Red wine gets its color and tannin from its skins, and orange wine applies the same logic to white grapes, which is why it is sometimes described as “a white wine made like a red.”

This style of winemaking dates back thousands of years and has its origins in Eastern Europe and the Caucasus region, particularly Georgia, which is often considered the birthplace of orange wine. In 2013, UNESCO added the ancient Georgian qvevri winemaking method to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, a sign of how deeply the tradition is woven into the country’s culture.

A Brief Overview of How Orange Wine Came About

Ancient Origins: The origins of orange wine can be traced back to ancient winemaking techniques. In Georgia, archaeologists have found evidence of winemaking dating back over 8,000 years, and it is believed that the tradition of fermenting white grapes with their skins and seeds in clay vessels called qvevri (large, egg-shaped terracotta amphorae) is where orange wine production began. In Georgia the style is simply called amber wine, and it is traditionally made from indigenous grapes such as Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Kisi.

Traditional Georgian Winemaking: Georgian winemakers would press white grapes and then ferment the juice along with the grape skins and seeds in qvevri buried underground. This extended contact with the skins gave the wine its amber color, unique flavors, and distinctive tannins. The buried clay keeps temperatures naturally steady, and the vessels are often lined with beeswax and sealed with a stone lid and earth while the wine rests on its skins, sometimes through the whole winter.

Revival of Interest: While orange wine remained a niche and traditional practice in places like Georgia, it gained renewed interest in the early 21st century as part of the natural wine movement. Many producers use little or no added sulfur and native yeasts, though not every orange wine is a natural wine. Wine enthusiasts and winemakers around the world started experimenting with this ancient technique, leading to a resurgence in orange wine production.

Modern Production: Today, orange wine is produced in various wine regions globally, with winemakers using different grape varieties and techniques. While Georgian methods remain influential, modern winemakers often use different types of vessels, such as clay amphorae, oak barrels, or stainless steel tanks, to create orange wines with a wide range of flavors and characteristics. Some producers also use concrete eggs or large neutral wooden vats, which allow gentle oxygen exchange without adding oak flavor.

Orange wine is appreciated for its complex and unique flavor profile, which often includes notes of dried fruits, tea, spices, and tannic structure. It offers an intriguing alternative to the more conventional white and red wines, and its popularity continues to grow among wine enthusiasts and those interested in exploring diverse wine styles.

How and When Did Orange Wines Become Popular?

The revival of the tradition of producing orange wines began in the early 2000s, and it was primarily driven by a group of winemakers and enthusiasts who sought to rediscover ancient winemaking techniques and explore new styles of wine. While this revival can be attributed to several individuals and regions, one of the key figures in popularizing orange wine was Josko Gravner, an Italian winemaker from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy. Gravner works in the village of Oslavia, in the Collio hills right on the border with Slovenia, a region where long skin contact on white grapes was once common practice.

Josko Gravner started experimenting with extended skin contact for white wines in the late 1990s. He is often said to have grown dissatisfied with the clean, cold-fermented whites of the era after a trip to California, and he turned back toward older methods. He adopted the use of clay amphorae, inspired by the traditional Georgian qvevri, to ferment and age his wines. Around 2001 he began fermenting in Georgian qvevri buried in his cellar floor, and his wines then spent many months on their skins before long aging in large oak. His decision to ferment white grapes with their skins and seeds for extended periods, sometimes for several months or even years, resulted in wines with a deep amber color, unique flavors, and a distinct tannic structure.

Gravner’s approach to winemaking and his commitment to reviving ancient techniques caught the attention of the wine world. His neighbor Stanko Radikon, also in Oslavia, was another early pioneer, and the two helped turn Ribolla Gialla into the signature grape of the style. His efforts played a significant role in popularizing orange wine and inspiring other winemakers to explore this style.

The revival of orange wine was not limited to Gravner or Italy. Winemakers in other regions, including Slovenia, Georgia, and parts of France, were also experimenting with similar techniques around the same time, contributing to the resurgence of interest in this traditional winemaking style. Across the border in Slovenia’s Goriška Brda, where Ribolla Gialla is known as Rebula, producers took up the same tradition, and the two sides of the frontier now share much of the style’s heritage. As a result, the production of orange wine expanded beyond its historical roots in Georgia and became a global phenomenon.

Today, orange wine is produced in various countries, and its popularity continues to grow, with winemakers and consumers appreciating its unique and diverse flavor profiles. Sommeliers and restaurants have embraced it as a flexible partner for foods that are awkward with either white or red wine. While Josko Gravner played a crucial role in the early stages of the revival, many others have since embraced this style, making it a vibrant and dynamic part of the wine world.

Orange Wine Production Process

The production of orange wine draws inspiration from ancient winemaking techniques. After the grapes are harvested, they are gently pressed, and the resulting juice is transferred to fermentation vessels. Unlike traditional white wine production, where the grape skins are immediately removed, in orange wine production, the skins remain in contact with the juice for an extended period. This prolonged maceration allows the wine to extract tannins, phenolic compounds, and other components from the skins, resulting in a unique flavor profile and color. Skin contact can last anywhere from a few days to six months or more, and the length is the single biggest lever on how deep, tannic, and savory the wine becomes.

Here’s a detailed overview of the orange wine production process:

Grape Selection: The process begins with the selection of white grape varieties. The choice of grape variety is essential, as it contributes to the flavor and aroma profile of the finished wine. Some grape varieties commonly used for orange wine production include Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay, among others. It’s important to pick grapes at the optimal level of ripeness to achieve the desired balance of sugars and acidity. Thick-skinned, aromatic varieties tend to do especially well, and because the skins stay in the tank for weeks, healthy, clean fruit matters even more than in ordinary white winemaking.

Crushing: The grapes are harvested and crushed to release the juice. This juice is typically white, as with any white wine production. In some traditions the berries are only partly crushed, and some producers include a portion of the stems for extra structure.

Skin Contact: Instead of immediately separating the juice from the grape skins, orange wine production involves extended contact between the juice and the grape skins. The crushed grapes, juice, skins, and sometimes seeds are transferred to a fermentation vessel. The choice of vessel can vary and may include clay amphorae, stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, or other containers. Temperatures are often left to rise naturally, which tends to encourage extraction.

Fermentation: The fermentation process begins naturally with the help of indigenous yeast present on the grape skins or in the winery environment. This fermentation process can last from several days to several months, or even longer, depending on the winemaker’s desired style. During fermentation, the grape skins impart color, flavor, and tannins to the wine. The phenolic compounds from the skins also act as natural antioxidants, which is one reason many orange wines can be made with very little sulfur.

Punch Downs and Pump Overs: Throughout fermentation, the winemaker may perform regular punch downs or pump overs to ensure that the skins remain in contact with the juice, promoting extraction of flavors, color, and tannins. Without this, the skins rise to form a thick cap on the surface that can dry out and invite spoilage.

Pressing: Once the winemaker is satisfied with the level of skin contact and extraction, the wine is pressed to separate the liquid from the solid grape material (skins, seeds, etc.). This can be done using a traditional press or other modern techniques. Many producers blend the free-run wine with the more tannic pressed wine to find the right balance.

Aging: The wine is then aged, often in the same vessel used for fermentation, but sometimes transferred to other containers such as oak barrels or stainless steel tanks. The duration of aging varies depending on the winemaker’s goals. Some orange wines are aged for several months, while others may be aged for several years.

Bottling: After aging, the wine is typically clarified and stabilized, and then it is bottled. Some producers skip fining and filtration, so a slight haze or a little sediment is normal and not a flaw. Some orange wines may continue to evolve in the bottle over time. 

Orange wine production can vary widely from one winemaker to another, and the style of the wine can range from light and fruity to complex and tannic. The choice of grape variety, fermentation vessel, length of skin contact, and aging process all contribute to the final characteristics of the wine, making each orange wine a unique expression of the winemaker’s artistry and the grape’s terroir.

Characteristics of Orange Wine

Orange wines showcase a wide range of characteristics that set them apart from both white and red wines. These characteristics result from the unique winemaking process, which involves fermenting white grape varieties with their skins and sometimes seeds. Here are the key features of orange wine:

Color: The most distinctive characteristic of orange wine is its color, which can range from pale amber to deep orange or even copper. This color is a result of extended skin contact during fermentation, as the grape skins release pigments into the wine. Pinkish-skinned grapes such as Pinot Grigio often give coppery shades, while grapes like Rkatsiteli tend toward deeper amber, and the color darkens further with age.

Aroma: Orange wines often have complex and aromatic bouquets. They can exhibit a wide range of aromas, which may include notes of dried fruits (apricots, figs, raisins), orange peel, spices (cinnamon, clove), floral elements (chamomile, honeysuckle), and sometimes earthy or mineral undertones. Bruised apple, walnut, and ginger are also common, and some wines carry a faint cider-like or oxidative note that is part of the style.

Flavor: The flavor profile of orange wine is typically rich and textured. It often combines the fruity characteristics of white grapes with the tannic structure more commonly associated with red wines. Flavors can include stone fruits (peach, apricot), citrus (orange, tangerine), honey, tea, nuts, and a pleasant bitterness akin to orange pith or herbal notes. The tea-like quality comes largely from tannins extracted from the skins, which is why some drinkers compare the texture to strong black tea.

Tannins: Orange wines have noticeable tannins due to the prolonged contact between the grape skins and the juice during fermentation. These tannins contribute to the wine’s structure, mouthfeel, and ability to age. They are typically drying and grippy rather than harsh, and seeds and stems, if included, can add further bite.

Acidity: Depending on the grape variety and winemaking techniques, orange wines can display a range of acidity levels. Some may have a bright and lively acidity, while others may show a more mellow or rounded acidity. Acidity and tannin together give the wines a freshness that keeps their richness from feeling heavy.

Texture: Orange wines are known for their textured and sometimes slightly grippy mouthfeel, which is a result of both the tannins and the oxidative winemaking process. This texture can give the wine a pleasant weight and complexity on the palate. Many tasters describe a savory, almost chewy quality that sets the style apart from the smoothness of most whites.

Ageability: Many orange wines have good aging potential. The tannins and structure allow them to develop and evolve in the bottle over time. Skin-derived phenolics act as natural preservatives, and well-made examples can develop nutty, honeyed, and dried-fruit notes over a decade or more. Some orange wines may benefit from several years of aging, developing even more complexity and depth.

Food Pairing: Orange wines can be versatile when it comes to food pairing. Their complex flavors and structure make them suitable for a wide range of dishes, including charcuterie, roasted poultry, grilled seafood, Middle Eastern cuisine, and even hearty vegetarian fare. They are often called one of the best “bridge” wines for tables where some guests are eating fish and others meat.

Serving Temperature: Orange wines are typically served at a slightly warmer temperature than white wines but cooler than red wines. A temperature range of 55-60°F (13-16°C) is often recommended, although it can vary depending on personal preference and the specific wine. Serving them too cold mutes their aromas and exaggerates the tannins.

The characteristics of orange wine can vary widely depending on factors such as the grape variety, winemaking techniques, and the region of production. Exploring different orange wines from various producers and regions can be an exciting way to experience the diversity of this style and find wines that suit your palate preferences.

Orange Wine Food Pairings and Versatility

Orange wines’ unique flavor profile and texture make them versatile when it comes to food pairings. They can complement a variety of dishes, including roasted poultry, charcuterie, aged cheeses, Middle Eastern cuisine, and even dishes with exotic spices. The tannic structure and complexity of orange wine can hold up to bolder flavors and enhance the overall dining experience. A useful rule of thumb is to treat them as a light red in a white wine’s body, matching them with dishes that are savory, fermented, or lightly bitter.

Complex flavor profiles, texture, and acidity make orange wines a great match for a wide range of dishes. Here are some food pairings and suggestions for enjoying orange wines:

Charcuterie: Orange wines’ combination of fruitiness, tannins, and acidity pairs exceptionally well with a variety of cured meats, such as prosciutto, salami, and chorizo. The wine’s texture complements the richness of the charcuterie. Their gentle grip also copes well with the salt and fat of cured meats.

Cheese: Orange wines are fantastic with cheese, especially those with some age and complexity. Consider pairing them with semi-hard cheeses like Gouda, aged cheddar, or Comté. The wine’s texture and tannins balance the creaminess of the cheese. Washed-rind and tangy sheep’s-milk cheeses are also excellent partners.

Seafood: The acidity and texture of orange wines make them a great choice for seafood dishes. Try them with grilled or roasted fish, seafood risotto, or shellfish. The wine’s structure complements the delicate flavors of the seafood. Richer fish such as grilled mackerel, sardines, and salmon work especially well.

Middle Eastern Cuisine: Orange wines pair beautifully with Middle Eastern dishes like falafel, kebabs, tabbouleh, and hummus. The wine’s aromatic complexity and tannins can complement the diverse flavors and spices in these foods. Tahini, sumac, and toasted nuts are especially good echoes of the wine’s nutty character.

Mediterranean Fare: Mediterranean cuisine, including dishes like grilled vegetables, couscous, and roasted lamb, can be enhanced by the depth and structure of orange wines. The wine’s acidity can cut through the richness of Mediterranean flavors. Olives, preserved lemon, and feta fit the style well.

Indian Cuisine: Orange wines can handle the bold and spicy flavors of Indian cuisine. They can complement dishes like curry, biryani, and tandoori chicken while providing a refreshing contrast to the heat. Their tannins and low sweetness make them a better match for heat than many fruity whites.

Vegetarian and Vegan Dishes: Orange wines are versatile enough to pair with a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Consider pairing them with roasted root vegetables, vegetable tagines, or hearty bean stews. Mushrooms, fermented vegetables such as kimchi, and dishes built on miso or soy also suit them.

Savory Tarts and Quiches: The acidity and complexity of orange wines make them a delightful match for savory tarts and quiches. Whether it’s a tomato and goat cheese tart or a mushroom quiche, the wine can enhance the dish’s flavors.

Spices and Herbs: Orange wines can stand up to dishes with aromatic spices and herbs. Think about pairing them with dishes featuring rosemary, thyme, sage, or cumin.

Aged and Smoked Meats: Orange wines’ tannins and texture can complement the flavors of aged or smoked meats, such as aged beef steaks or smoked duck. Their savory, slightly oxidative notes also echo the caramelized, smoky flavors of grilled and roasted food.

Of course, personal taste plays a significant role in food and wine pairings, so don’t hesitate to experiment and discover your own favorite combinations. The versatility of orange wines allows for a wide range of culinary adventures, making them an exciting choice for wine enthusiasts and food lovers alike.

The Most Famous Orange Wine Regions And Producers

As the popularity of orange wine has grown, several countries and regions around the world have gained recognition for producing some of the best examples of this unique style. The quality of orange wine can vary widely depending on the winemaker’s expertise, grape varieties used, and specific winemaking techniques. While it’s difficult to definitively rank the “best” orange wines, some regions and countries are known for producing exceptional examples:

Georgian Orange Wines: Georgia is often considered the birthplace of orange wine, and it continues to be a significant producer of traditional amber wines. The Kakheti region in Georgia is famous for its traditional amber wines made in qvevri. Georgian orange wines are known for their depth of flavor, complexity, and use of indigenous grape varieties like Rkatsiteli and Kisi. Georgia has hundreds of native grape varieties, and many families still make their own wine in qvevri each autumn, so the tradition is as much domestic as commercial.

Slovenian Orange Wines: The Goriška Brda wine region in Slovenia, particularly around the town of Gorizia, is known for its orange wines. Slovenian winemakers have gained international acclaim for their natural and long-aged amber wines. Brda is a hilly region whose marl and sandstone soils, known locally as ponca, are often credited with giving its wines a distinctive savory depth. Also, you should definitely pay attention to the Slovenian wine regions of Vipava Valley and Istria (the Adriatic coast of Slovenia) and try orange wines made from such famous grape varieties as Pinela, Pinot Gris and Malvasia. Slovenia’s Karst plateau, known as Kras, is another source, with its red soils and Teran and Vitovska grapes.

Italian Orange Wines: In addition to Josko Gravner’s pioneering efforts in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, other Italian regions like Sicily (Azienda COS) and Emilia-Romagna have also produced notable orange wines. Italian orange wines often feature grape varieties such as Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia. In Friuli, the Carso area near Trieste is also known for Vitovska and Malvasia macerated on the skins, and in Sicily COS ferments in buried terracotta amphorae it calls pithoi.

French Orange Wines: The Jura region in eastern France is known for producing Vin Jaune, a type of orange wine made from the Savagnin grape. These wines are aged under a layer of yeast (similar to sherry) and have a distinctive flavor profile. Skin-contact whites are also made in Alsace and Roussillon, where small producers have embraced the technique for grapes such as Pinot Gris, Muscat, and Grenache Gris.

Austrian Orange Wines: The Burgenland region in Austria is gaining recognition for its amber wines, often made from grape varieties like Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Producers like Gut Oggau and Claus Preisinger are known for their orange wines. Styria, along the Slovenian border, has also become an important center for skin-contact whites.

Croatian Orange Wines: The country’s Istria region has a growing reputation for orange wine production. Producers like Kabola and Clai are known for their quality amber wines. Istria’s signature grape Malvasia Istriana is a frequent choice for long maceration, and the peninsula’s red soils add to the savory character.

US Orange Wines: In the United States, particularly in California and Oregon, some winemakers have embraced orange wine production. These wines often feature a range of grape varieties and winemaking techniques, reflecting the diversity of American winemaking. Small, experimental bottlings from the Finger Lakes and Virginia have also appeared, and Australia and South Africa are producing growing numbers of their own.

The best orange wines can be a matter of personal taste, as they come in various styles and flavor profiles. Additionally, the quality and reputation of orange wines continue to evolve, so new regions and producers may emerge over time as the industry develops. Wine enthusiasts are encouraged to explore a variety of orange wines from different regions to find their own favorites. 

Orange wine presents wine lovers with a captivating journey that challenges conventional expectations and embraces the artistry of winemaking. Its distinct amber hue, complex aromas, tannic structure, and fuller body offer a sensory experience that sets it apart from other wine styles. Whether you are an adventurous wine enthusiast seeking new flavors or a connoisseur interested in exploring ancient winemaking techniques, orange wine invites you to savor its unique characteristics and embark on an intriguing gustatory adventure. A good way to start is with a bottle from Friuli or Georgia, served just slightly cool alongside a plate of cheese and charcuterie.