Pecorino

Pecorino is a satisfying case study in vinous resurrection: a grape that nearly vanished, then came back sharper, louder, and more confident than before.

Its origins sit in central Italy, most convincingly in the Marche, though Abruzzo has an equally strong historical claim. For centuries, Pecorino lingered on the margins, valued locally but ignored commercially. By the mid-20th century it was close to extinction, largely because it ripens early and produces relatively low yields—traits that once made it inconvenient rather than fashionable. Late-20th-century growers, reassessing indigenous varieties with fresh eyes, realized those “flaws” were actually virtues.

Today, Pecorino is most closely associated with the Marche, especially around Ascoli Piceno, and with Abruzzo, where it has become one of the region’s most distinctive white grapes. Smaller plantings also exist in Umbria and Lazio, and adventurous growers have taken it abroad to places like Australia and the United States, though it remains unmistakably Italian in personality.

The name almost certainly comes from pecora, the Italian word for sheep. Local lore suggests flocks grazed among the vines during seasonal migrations, happily munching on the grapes. Whether strictly true or not, the name captures the grape’s pastoral roots and its deep tie to the landscape.

In the vineyard, Pecorino is vigorous and surprisingly resilient. It shows good resistance to disease and adapts well to a range of soils, particularly well-drained sites in hilly or coastal areas. The clusters are compact, with small, thin-skinned berries, which helps explain the grape’s aromatic intensity. It ripens early yet manages to retain acidity, a combination that immediately sets it apart from many warm-climate white varieties.

In wine form, Pecorino is anything but shy. The color is usually pale straw with greenish highlights. Aromatically, it is expressive and layered, offering floral notes like acacia and chamomile, bright citrus, and sometimes a hint of tropical fruit. There is often an herbal or saline edge that adds intrigue rather than softness.

On the palate, Pecorino delivers a compelling tension: crisp acidity wrapped in a surprisingly full-bodied frame. Flavors of green apple, pear, peach, citrus zest, and herbs sit atop a distinctly mineral backbone. Alcohol levels tend to be moderate to high, giving the wine weight without heaviness when handled well.

Although many Pecorino wines are made for early enjoyment, the better examples show real aging potential. With time, they can gain texture and complexity, trading some of their youthful brightness for deeper, more savory notes.

In summary, Pecorino is no longer a curiosity rescued from the past but a modern statement grape with ancient roots. It offers freshness without fragility, structure without dullness, and a strong sense of place. Its revival is a reminder that forgotten varieties often disappear not because they lack quality, but because the world wasn’t ready for them yet.